montana
A stunningly beautiful morning for a bike ride in Glacier National Park


Above: Morning in Glacier National Park [Day 144]


Day 143: 78.16 miles, 7:19 hours, St Mary (Red Eagle RV Park), MONTANA
[ MAP ] [ NATIONAL PARK MAP ]


Another shitty, boring windy day. Would have been lovely if I was heading east with the wind.

I spent the day in a trance. Instead of watching the road ahead of me, I watched the reflection of the road, reflected onto my sunglasses, reflected into my helmet mirror. Kept me entertained for a few hours but left me with crossed-eyes.

They let me back into the USA, surprisingly. Was hoping to be in Glacier National Park tonight but riding with a constant side wind was too tiring.



Day 144: 108.1 miles, 8:26 hours, Stealth Camp (Big Fork National Campground)
[ MAP ]


Ah… Today was the first enjoyable day of riding I've had for a very long time. I got up early and rode straight into the park, it was still cold and wet but the scenery was fantastic. I eventually got to the summit of the road and was then treated to a 12 mile downhill ride through some of the most fan-fucking-tastic scenery ever. Was treated to another bear sighting. I've got that shit-eating grin back on my face again.

Pulled into a closed National Park campground and treated myself to a 12" pizza from the store just outside. Convenience plus.



Day 145: 93.7 miles, 6:55 hours, Campground 10mi W of Ovando
[ MAP ]


I was too lazy to set up my tent last night and instead just lay on the picnic table. It was an on and off sleep, I kept hearing noises down by the water but couldn't work out what it was. I had my alarm set for 6am but when it went off it was pitch black with the stars still out in force. Tried to sleep a bit more, but the 12" vegetarian pizza wanted out.

The ride along Highway 83 was quite pleasant, nothing special, just forest, but almost no traffic. Around lunchtime I stopped at Condon and ate two over-ripe bananas, an apple and a litre of chocolate milk. About ten minutes down the road I was feeling as high as a kite. My body felt numb and I had to concentrate on following the road's white line. It was great.

A guy at the store wearing coke bottle glasses noted that I was travelling alone, "That's a bit stupid isn't it?". I thought of a bunch of good things I could have said to him afterwards, but unfortunately not at the time.


A beautiful sight to behold from the saddle of a touring bike while riding through Glacier National Park


Above: Morning in Glacier National Park [Day 144]


Day 146: 151.71 miles, 8:53 hours, Three Forks (KOA Campground)
[ MAP ]


What a day of fabulous riding. It's amazing how the aversion of paying one's camping fees motivates one to start riding early. I was out of the campground by seven and didn't see the sun until 7:50am. A lot of small rolling hills but with a little tailwind I'd done fifty miles by 11am. After forty minutes of climbing, I hit my summit for the day; six thousand and something feet and about my fifth(?) crossing of the continental divide. Then a fabulous eight percent grade downhill almost all the way into Helena. I stopped for a quick thickshake and fries and was off again with more twenty mile per hour tailwinds. The skies had huge storm potential and looked very threatening but luckily not a drop of rain hit me. Just out of town, at the edge of an empty field, stood a black billboard with plain, white lettering:

    "Is the road you're on taking you to my place?"
    - God                


I thought it was something to do with safe driving or something. As I was swept past with the wind I looked at the back of it. Again; white lettering on an all black background:

    "I don't doubt your existence"
    - God                


Another shit-eating grin from me, and I gave the big guy in the sky a big thank you for the trip so far.

It wasn't long before I hit Townsend where I had planned to continue on with my good run and head east to a campground (winds were coming from the northwest). I stopped at the gas station to fill up on water but by the time I got outside again the wind was all over the place. I tried heading east out of town but had leaves blowing straight into my face and was almost careering into oncoming cars. At first I thought it was just turbulence from being amongst the town's buildings, but as I got to the edge of the town I was almost blown completely off my bike. The wind had almost reversed direction in just ten minutes.

Well...a change in wind direction calls for a change in plan. There was no way I was gonna struggle against ths headwind so late in the day. So I turned South and followed the wind. It was kind of like windsurfing; I just pointed the tyres in the right direction and the wind did the rest. Just before getting to the Interstate 90, on a downhill with the wind at my back, I reached my highest speed on this trip so far; 52 miles per hour (83km/h). Moments later, I got my first ever pinch flat; probably from rolling over gravel on a fully-loaded bike going 52 miles per hour.


Me, my fully loaded and heavy trk 520 touring bike with its lovely arkel panniers standing next to my favourite sign, the summit at Glacier National Park
all images © Leon Steber


Above: Stef and I and my favourite sign, the summit at Glacier National Park [Day 144]

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