My first day in Olympic National Park in the Hoh rain forest section. I hate stating the obvious, but it rained today. I think this must be the first time in my life I’ve consciously decided to go for a bicycle ride when it’s raining (coming from a place that has about 330 days of clear skies every year, it’s not a decision that has to be made too often). And I realised how much fun it is. It was a light, but soaking rain that lasted all day and my rain gear got its first real test. The rain covers for the panniers do a good job except the rear covers don’t drain very well, leaving the bottom of the panniers quite soaked. Luckily I have put anything of importance inside dry bags. My main concern was my acoustic guitar which is sitting on my rear rack. Before starting the trip I used a whole spray can of weatherproofing on the nylon guitar soft-case and now it is wrapped in a 64-day old, very holey garbage bag followed with a rainproof backpack cover which seems to just let the water soak into it.

When I set up camp in the only dry spot I could find, under a large-leafed tree, I was too nervous to unpack the guitar to see how it had survived. It was tempting to ride back out of the rain forest to a state park down the road which I knew would have hot showers, but the idea of doing another 31 miles in the rain was enough to put me off.

Took a small walk in the afternoon and despite the dullness of the daylight in the rainforest, it is amazingly beautiful and luscious with bright green ferns and mosses everywhere they can grow. Green, green, iridescent green everywhere. The trees seem to sag under the burden of supporting the enormous amount of life in their branches and water drips from everywhere.

My first thorough soaking, Olympic National Park (Day 64)

My first thorough soaking, Olympic National Park (Day 64)

Day65

Olympic National Park (Mora Campground)[MAP]

Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park (Day 65)

Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park (Day 65)

Second beach at La Push, Olympic National Park (Day 66)

Second beach at La Push, Olympic National Park (Day 66)

It was an easy decision to stay a day here, my riding clothes and shoes are still wet and cold from two days ago. I rode out to Rialto beach and took a long walk along the beach. There are a number of very tall, narrow rocky sea stacks standing in the water, usually with a tree or two perched on top of them that’s decided to bravely beat the odds at surviving in such a precarious location. I then headed to the Quileute Indian Reservation and checked out Second Beach, again very beautiful. Spotted three bald eagles circling overhead, easy to spot because of their white head and tail feathers.

Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park (Day 66)

Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park (Day 66)

Hole in the Wall, Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park (Day 66)

Hole in the Wall, Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park (Day 66)

Second beach at La Push, Olympic National Park (Day 66)

Second beach at La Push, Olympic National Park (Day 66)

Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park (Day 66)

Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park (Day 66)

Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park (Day 66)

Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park (Day 66)

Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park (Day 66)

Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park (Day 66)

Day67

Olympic National Park (Ozette Campground)[MAP]

My longest riding day so far! Got to see Vancouver island from the north coast and also met two Canadian bicyclists, who gave me some ideas of rides on Vancouver island. One of them was small and bearded and reminded me of a hobbit, and it was hard not to smile seeing the guy hop up onto his loaded bicycle and ride off. They were both over fifty, I hope if I reach that age I’ll still be doing things like this.

Got to the most northwestern point of the contiguous United States where I quickly got my photo taken for posterity and headed on.

Was going to camp at the Neah Bay Indian Reservation but the campgrounds looked quite shitty so I rode all the way back to Ozette. Put up my tent at a private campground and made good use of the hot shower, which I haven’t seen the likes of since day 61.

The Tour De France is on at the moment and as I’m wearing US Postal Team bike shorts I keep getting people approaching me to give me updates on how Armstrong is going. Some kids at a cafe even called out “Lance!” as I rode past. Lance can lift his bike with his little finger, I have trouble lifting my bike at all.

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