Caught an early bus to the Pyramides at Teotiuacan. Pretty much had the place to myself for two hours before hordes of people, including hundreds of cute, little Mexican school kids showed up. They have no idea who built the impressive city and its temples or where they disappeared to. Then the Aztecs arrived, liked what they saw, and used the place themselves.

Back in Mexico D.F. I spent the afternoon hanging out in sunny plazas and courtyards, reading, watching and listening. There is music everywhere here; on the corner there will be a man with a windup music box, in another pedestrian arcade there will be a band of talented blind musicians, and outside the church I ended up at, a trio of girls with violins were playing classical music. I love this city.

While I was sitting outside the church, two cute girls smiled when they arrived and sat behind me for a while. When I left to find a restaurant I passed them again and one of them called out Hoya to me. They asked me something in Spanish, realised I didn’t understand, then asked me where I was from in English. Perla and Lilia are studying linguistics, English and German and ask if I want to swap some language skills with them over coffee. I learn how to say a bunch of things from them and Perla even writes it all down for me in a “Personalised Dictionary To Leon”. After I’d practiced, but not actually ordered a dish of enfrijoladas, they invited me to join them at a concert at the Spanish Cultural Centre next to the Cathedral. A strange Spanish guy sang a bunch of controversial and social commentary type songs. I couldn’t understand a word of it but watching his facial expressions and the accompanying classical guitarist was entertainment enough. Perla was kind enough to explain the meaning behind several songs, one of which was about a cigarette crossing the Mexican/US border as an illegal immigrant and then going around destroying everything (don’t ask me).

Was planning to hop back on the bike tomorrow and head for the Yucatan but the idea of hanging out with two cute Mexican girls seems more sensible.

Met up with Perla and Lilia after their classes and watched a film. We headed back to the cafe we’d been at last night where I got to have my enfrijoladas and then headed to a small party not far from downtown.

After sampling her Mum’s awesome home cooking (the best meatballs I’ve ever had, they had a boiled egg inside!) she wished me on my way with a passionate kiss that’s going to leave me on a high for days. I’m going to miss her.

Tomorrow I ride…

Fifty-six kilometres later and I was at the top amongst a dozen roadside food stalls nestled under the pine trees. I had a total pig-out. No menu or trying to explain what I wanted; when I said I didn’t know Spanish the friendly waitress pulled me over to food to pick and choose. Soup with god-knows-what in it and soft green tacos with fritas and meat, it was bloody lovely.

Had to don my jacket for the downhill. It was about eighteen kilometres before I had to start pedalling and was very easy for another fifteen.

Got into Puebla, found a hotel and booked for two nights. I wandered into the downtown streets which were a riot of people, colour, dancing, music, balloons and clowns. It was fantastic, I guess it must be a Sunday thing. Everyone was out with their families and everyone looked like they were having a good time.

I saw mention of a passenger train between Puebla and Oaxaca in my dog-eared and out-of-date Mexico guidebook (two bucks from the Perth library throwaway sale). There’s only one thing better than a bike, and that’s a train.