Puebla Cathedral (Day 190)

Puebla Cathedral (Day 190)

It’s funny, but with a day’s rest I feel like hopping back on the bicycle again. You can only walk around and look at churches and ruins so much, you can only drink so many coffees in small, friendly cafes before you start buzzing like a fridge and pissing like a racehorse.

Found the tourist centre and asked for a ticket for the Oaxaca train. The gentleman at the counter gave me a smile and said, almost a little sadly, that the train hasn’t run for the last five years,

“Ah, but it was very panoramic”.

Puebla is one of the oldest Mexican cities and the downtown is filled with lovely Spanish architecture. The central park has been filled with life everyday, it’s a wonderful city to people watch. I sampled the local speciality for lunch, mole poblano con pollo; chicken covered in a thick chocolate (yes…chocolate) and coconut sauce.

It’s Valentines Day today. Mexicans are so passionate and affectionate, and it’s not just today. Every day I see couples of all ages, young and old, passionately kissing and embracing – it’s wonderful to see and always brings a smile to my face.

Puebla Cathedral (Day 190)

Puebla Cathedral (Day 190)

Puebla (Day 190)

Puebla (Day 190)

Puebla (Day 190)

Puebla (Day 190)

Puebla (Day 190)

Puebla (Day 190)

Puebla Cathedral (Day 190)

Puebla Cathedral (Day 190)

Puebla Cathedral (Day 190)

Puebla Cathedral (Day 190)

Day191

Bus to Oaxaca, Hotel Central (Rest Day)[MAP]

Ceiling detail at the Oaxaca Cathedral (Day 191)

Ceiling detail at the Oaxaca Cathedral (Day 191)

I rode through Puebla’s ancient cobbled streets to the autobus station in the morning. Getting chased by evil buses and being cut off by turning cars and there’s me; just riding, so calm, smiling, almost in a trance. It’s like Stef is a drug and I’ve been smoking too much of it.The bus driver looked a little puzzled as to where he was going to put my bike on the full bus. I sat next to a middle-aged English lady who was holidaying with her husband and two kids.  She was so extremely dull that it scared me. The road was spectacular though, it would have been a ridiculous climb.

Tall skinny cacti and deep gorges bare but for the brown scrub that was everywhere.

Found a hotel, the price of which had risen 400 per cent since my guidebook had been published. Showered and hit the streets to discover Oaxaca is another beautiful Mexican town. The cathedral is extravagantly stunning, I’m sure there’s more gold on the ceiling there than in some Swiss bank vaults. Lots of old cobbled streets and brightly painted buildings. Blue and orange seems to be the favourite colours.

I came about an English bookstore by accident, filled with interesting books about art, photography, radical philosophies, anti-corporations and Shamanism. I bought Ernesto Che Guevara’s “Motorcycle Diaries: notes on a Latin American Journey”, wandered over to a nice cafe I’d noticed earlier, ordered a large americano with milk and set about ingesting the book. The coffee was incredibly good and sent my head into a spin that made Che’s adventure even more amazing.

It got me wondering whether I will get to South America one day and inspires me even more to attempt the massive continent with my sturdy bike, Stef.  He writes so well, conjuring up colourful images with a humour that leaves me wanting for more.

After dinner I stopped by a small art cafe and had two lovely glasses of vino tinto while I watched a lady play guitar and sing Spanish songs. The music didn’t do much for me, the vino tinto did, and so I’m glad I stopped in.

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